Colorado to New Mexico.

October 2, 2014: Abiquiu Lake, New Mexico.

Pronunciation: Abiquiu (a-bih-cue)

A final look back at the Great Sand Dunes and we’re trekking south toward New Mexico.  Jack has found a Core of Engineers (COE) campground that we want to check out.  Down US285 through Alamosa and Antonito, we make our way into New Mexico to Espanola where we turn back north toward our destination – Abiquiu Lake and Riana Campground. 

The drive up to the lake is beautiful with the Chama River to our left and soaring red cliffs to our right.

Abiquiu Lake is gorgeous and very serene.  Cerro Pedernal, the flat-topped mountain made famous by New Mexico painter, Georgia O’Keeffe, dominates the landscape.

We settle in for a few days of relaxation with a little adventure thrown in for good measure.

October 3, 2014: A day trip heading north on US84 . . . back into Colorado.

We plan to drive to the summit of Cumbres Pass, which actually lies over the border into Colorado.  We’re hoping for some lovely fall colors and some fun stops along the way.

Ghost Ranch: O’Keeffe and other legends.

Our first stop is Ghost Ranch where in 1934, Georgia O’Keeffe spent her first of many summers exploring the surrounding landscape that inspired her painting for four decades.  A few years later she purchased a small home along with seven acres on the ranch from the owner, Arthur Pack.

There is a multitude of old stories and legends about Ghost Ranch: witches, demons, hangings, and even a 30-foot rattlesnake that killed people.  Interestingly regarding the snake story, in 1933 paleontologists found the skeleton of a 20-foot long snake at the foot of a local mesa.  You just never know.  Some legends may have an element of truth to them.

Jack checking out the “City Slicker” cabin site not far from the main road at the ranch entrance.

One of the most interesting legends told is about the Archuleta brothers who purchased the land in this box canyon valley in the late 1800’s.  Looking to diversify their enterprises, they decided to expand their cattle rustling and opened a B&B.  Only one problem.  Guests checked in, but never checked out.  Any unlucky soul that happened along looking for a bed for the night was murdered, and their horse and belongings stolen.   

Ghost Ranch was donated to the Presbyterian Church in 1955 by Arthur and Pheobe Pack.  Today they offer spiritual retreats, tours, and other activities.  Visitors are always welcome.

Echo Amphitheater: Hello ((((( Hello ((((( Hello ((((( Hello

Back to the highway we turn right and head north again.  Not many miles up the road and we pull into the parking lot of the natural stone amphitheater.  A 5 – 10 minute hike and we’re standing looking upward at the huge half dome.  We each let out a few yelps and sing “Happy Birthday” – for lack of anything more creative going on in our heads.

A very interesting observation is that when you talk (or yell) the echo is magnified from your original volume.  Be careful what you say at Echo Amphitheater.

Tierra Wools, 91 Main Street, Los Ojos, NM.

At the Tierra Wools sign alongside the road we scoot off the highway and wind down the hill and through the little village of Los Ojos in search of their establishment. 

 There it is – Tierra Wools storefront.

We park the Jeep and walk across the street and through the door.  Having been raised on a farm in Iowa, and some years of raising sheep, the first thing I notice is the very distinctive smell of wool.  Following the smell is the sight of so many beautiful rugs, scarves, blankets, and more.

One of the young ladies managing the store gives us detailed information about the business of sheep, wool, and weavers.  They use only wool from flocks raised in the surrounding area – two breeds: Rambioullet sheep and their “main attraction” Navajo-Churro sheep. 

She points to a large room to the rear and says, “You are welcome to walk through the weaving studio and observe the weaver as he works.”

There are 8 or 10 looms of varying sizes, many in mid-project waiting for their weaver’s return.

This is where we meet a most delightful man and weaver extraordinaire, Charles Thompson.  He’s been weaving for about five years.  He’s happy to weave and talk, and demonstrate his technique, and talk about his design in his head.  He used to have to refer to his design on paper as he worked.  Today, the design is committed to memory in his head and woven into his rug as he works.       

Dyed in the wool – with bug juice.

Charles looks up from his loom and asks, “Have you seen our wool dying room yet?”

In unison we both respond that we have not, but would like to.

Charles explains that two different processes are used for dying wool – commercial dyes and natural dyes.  These woodburning units are used for the commercial dyes.

These pots contain natural dyes – plants, flowers, bark, roots, and even insects to achieve the desired colors.   

This beautiful dark red yard is dyed with Cochineal.  BUGS!  These little black bugs (with red guts?) turn the yard this gorgeous red color.  Pretty amazing stuff, folks.

 

The end results just waiting for talented individuals to create a beautiful pieces of “art”.

We thank Charles for his time and leave him at his loom, lost in his thoughts and creativity.  This has been a very interesting departure from our standard day out in the wide open spaces.  Neither of us participates in any activity that includes sheep or wool or yard or weaving or knitting – but this is a very fascinating industry to gain just a little bit of knowledge about.  Check out the Tierra Wools website and if you’re so inclined, give these folks some business. 

Hasta la Vista . . .  Baby!

Back on the road heading north again we drive through Chama where we depart US84 and pick up SH17 that rises over Cumbres Pass (elevation 10,022 feet) and into Colorado.   

At the pass we stop at the train station of the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad.  The railroad is owned by the states of Colorado and New Mexico and runs for the enjoyment of tourists.   Trains leave out of Chama, NM and Antonito, CO with variety of trip options.

You start on the north side of the building with that bucket of yellow paint.  I’ll start on the south side with this bucket of yellow paint.  We’ll have this done in no time.  Hmm.  What color of yellow did you use?

Back down the hill . . . toward New Mexico.

The highway looks like a ribbon stretched out below us.

The Aspens are orange, golden, red, and green. 

We enter New Mexico again.  This is such a pretty valley.  As we wind our way back down the mountains in the direction of Chama, NM, we see ranches dotting the valley.

We retrace our tracks back to Abiquiu Lake.

The day is coming to a close and we’re happy to be back at Abiquiu Lake.  Sitting in our lounge chairs with a glass of dark grape juice (Alcohol is prohibited.  Thankfully, we have grape juice on hand - that could be easily mistaken for Shiraz.).  Gazing out over the lake and Georgia’s flat topped mountain in the background - life is good.  Another amazing day behind us.  Until next time – be safe.