Chapel, Dude Ranch & 4-Diamond Resort

August 2, 2017

Grand Teton National Park, WY

Chapel of the Transfiguration

Today we are spending time along Teton Park Road - the inside road nearest the Tetons. Our first stop of the day is the Chapel of the Transfiguration, built in the summer of 1925.  The land was donated by Miss Maude Noble.  It is built of lodgepole pine, and the pews are quaking aspen.  All of the logs were cut locally in the valley.  There is a plate glass window above the alter framing the Teton Mountains in the background.  During the tourist season, the door is open twenty-four hours every day to all who come. 

The Chapel is named for the Gospel story of the Transfiguration (Luke 9:28-36).  Jesus goes into the mountains with Peter, James and John, appearing to them with Moses and Elijah dressed in brilliant white clothing.  A cloud covers them, and a voice says, “This is My beloved Son; listen to Him.”  When the cloud went away, Jesus was seen, standing alone, by His disciples.

Bar BC Ranch 

After leaving the Chapel we travel a few miles north on the Teton Park Road.  The south turnoff to the River Road near Taggart Lake Trailhead winds through sagebrush and heads east toward the Snake River.  It’s a one lane gravel road with turnouts for meeting other vehicles.  We are totally alone, meeting not a single vehicle.

About a mile and a half back the River Road is closed, but we do fine a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow (or at the “Road Closed” sign).  The Bar BC Ranch.  It isn’t even noted on the official park map, which is surprising.  It’s just one of those things you are lucky enough to come across if you venture off the main drag.  Dude cabins below with sod roofs.

In 1912 Struthers Burt (a popular author of his time) and Dr. Horace Carncross opened Jackson Hole’s second dude ranch.  It quickly became the most famous in the valley as it was unlike any traditional dude ranch, entertaining high society clientele with costume parties, original plays and performances, and literary discussions.  This had to be one hoppin' place!  (The photo below is taken from the monument display at the Bar BC Ranch.) 

In its heyday in the 1920’s there were nearly 100 buildings – the main cabin, a dance hall, and dude cabins.  The main cabin is below.  On the right, you can see an entire section of the building has collapsed with the fireplace still standing.
 

As many as 50 “dudes” could stay at the ranch at a rate of $300/month.  (Note: Nearly a hundred years later, $300 will hardly get you a single night’s stay in Jackson Hole!)   Today 30 buildings remain.

We walk back up the hill to the Jeep and make our way back to the Teton Park Road.

Spalding Bay Road

Another no-name road leads west into the wilderness on the south side of Jackson Lake near Spalding Bay.  We decide to call it the Spalding Bay Road just to lend a bit of originality to it.  (That’s us - original, if anything!)  Again, a one lane gravel road leading to pretty much nowhere – which is where we like to be.  We do meet a few folks coming and going.  The road ends a few miles back at the bay.

A gravel area to put a kayak or small boat into the lake and a couple of backcountry campsites – that pretty much wraps it up.  It’s another view of the lake.  And that’s about all I have to say about that. 

Jenny Lake

Back to the Teton Park Road, we turn south again.  The Jenny Lake Road and Jenny Lake Lodge are ahead.

Jenny Lake is a hub of activity.  There are miles of hiking in the mountains, biking trails, swimming and boating.  You can take the shuttle boat from South Jenny Lake to the west side to Inspiration Point and long hikes beyond.  If you want a parking space, get here early in the morning; otherwise, you'll find yourself parked out along the highway with a good hike before you ever reach the Visitor Center.  

Jenny Lake Lodge

 In 1922, 160 acres near Jenny Lake were homesteaded by Tony Grace where he started a dude ranch called Danny Ranch after the daughter of some good friends.  He started with 5 cabins and a slightly larger main lodge. 

In 1931, it was renamed Jenny Lake Ranch when John D. Rockefeller, Jr. sponsored to fulfill the vision of Grand Teton National Park.  It was closed during World War II as most visitor areas were, then reopened in 1946. 

The name was changed for the last time in 1952 to Jenny Lake Lodge.  Through the years additional cabins were added and upgrades to the main lodge and existing cabins were done.  Although there have been remodels over time, Jenny Lake Lodge has retained its rustic charm from its early years.  Today it is a AAA four-diamond resort.  You’ve come a long way, baby. 

Back to Our B-Rated One-Diamond-in-the-Rough Campground

It’s been a busy day.  Jack enjoyed sitting on the porch of the AAA four-diamond resort.  But, now it’s back to our B-rated, one-diamond-in-the-rough campground, sleeping in our AAA four-diamond Navion.  It’s still the good life.  Until next time, be safe.