March 23, 2014: Chiricahua National Monument – A Sky Island.
Today we venture off to the
“Land of Standing Up Rocks”. We leave
Benson and merge onto I-10 and drive east to the next little town of Wilcox. We turn south on SH186 and head to our
destination – Chiricahua National Monument.
(Pronounced: cheer i cow
ah)
We travel another 35 miles
through Sulphur Springs Valley, then turn east onto SH181 and drive the 4 miles
to the entrance station (Senior Pass = Free Entry!). The park lies within the boundaries of
Coronado Wilderness Area in the Chiricahua Mountains.
Organ Pipe Formation.
From the golden grasslands,
the road winds 8 miles up Bonita Canyon to the summit, Massai Point. Along the way we stop at the Organ Pipe
Formation. The rock formations in the
park are called pinnacles, but also go by the names of columns and totem poles - or as the Chiricahua Apache called them, “standing up rocks”.
An island in the sky.
As we ascend through the
canyon beautiful rock columns line the road in many areas. The grasslands give way to sycamore, juniper,
and oak trees. As we near the summit of
the “island in the sky” we enter woodlands of cypress, pine, and fir. Not only has the vegetation changed
dramatically, but we now find that a sweatshirt or jacket feels mighty good at
this altitude. By the way, what is a
“sky island”?
This information board is located in the exhibit building at Massai Point. It gives a great explanation of "sky islands". |
The exhibit building sits on the hilltop overlooking the rock formations. |
We trek along the very easy Massai Nature Trail and enjoy the exhibit building.
There are miles of trails
that snake through the canyons, meadows, and rock formations. Since we didn’t come prepared for serious
hiking we opt for the nature trail that circles the summit.
Lichen covers the rock formations. |
Aptly named "Balancing Rock". |
This lizard was totally indifferent to our presence as I approached for a close up shot. |
Standing Up Rocks with Sulphur Springs Valley below, and the Dragoon Mountains in the distance. |
In perfect balance. |
Panoramic view across the "standing up rocks", Sulphur Springs Valley, and the Dragoon Mountains in the distance. |
Sugarloaf Mountain and the Turkey Creek Caldera.
On the far right side of the
preceding picture you can see the upslope of Sugarloaf Mountain. Echo and Rhyolite Canyons are over 1,000 feet
below the summit.
Sugarloaf Mountain with Echo Canyon far below in the foreground. The tiny object on the top of the mountain is the fire lookout. |
Nature trail plaque describing the eruption of Turkey Creek Caldera 10 miles to the south, and the impact on this area over 25 million years ago. Eons of erosion has created what we see today. |
Jack leads the way along the trail.
Exhibit building with a 360-degree view. |
Checking out the “Big Blast”!
Here’s what we glean from
the NPS exhibit building:
“Nearly 27 million years
ago the earth shook as huge clouds of ash, gas, and pumice began erupting into
the atmosphere. When the eruptions
stopped, more than 1,200 square miles of the surrounding area were covered with
layers of volcanic ash. So much material
was blown out of the volcano, it collapsed forming a caldera, a huge
crater-like depression, 12 miles across and 5,000 feet deep. Today, it is difficult to see signs of the
volcano. Travel south from the park 12
miles to Turkey Creek and you will be inside the dormant volcano. Geologists estimate that the Turkey Creek
eruption was 1,000 times larger than the 1980 eruption of Mount Saint Helens in
Washington. The Turkey Creek Volcano
blew out 100 cubic miles of material
while Mount Saint Helens produced one tenth of a cubic mile.”
Off we go to the volcano!
Armed with a little
information, we wind our way back down the mountain, into Sulphur Springs
Valley, and head south – into the remnants of Turkey Creek Volcano.
Looking across the grasslands toward the Dragoon Mountains. |
And here we are - standing inside the dormant volcano. Anticlimactic? Well, yes. |
What was a catastrophic event 27 million years ago is now beautiful ranch
grasslands encircled by the Chiricahua Mountains. We wouldn’t know we were driving through a
dormant volcano if it weren’t for the NPS information. Glad we took the time to learn something new today.
Homeward bound.
It’s time to head for
home. SH181 to SH191, north past the
Dragoon Mountains and the turn off for the Cochise Stronghold that takes you to
the remote hiding place of the Apache chief of the same name. We head west on Dragoon Road, drive through
the little hamlet of Dragoon, and a short while later merge back onto I-10
westbound for the short drive back to Benson.
But, one last thing before I end this.
I nearly forgot to mention the most fun we had all day. While driving on a spur
road in the park that takes you to the fire lookout trailhead, we pull off on a
turnout to take a few pictures. Photos
and viewing complete, we hop back in the Jeep.
Jack looks in the rearview mirror before pulling back onto the
road. Take a guess what comes scampering
across the road just behind the Jeep? A
coatimundi!!! We both jump back out of
the Jeep to get a good look at this critter.
He heads into the brush and, of course, we follow. This elusive creature loses us before I can
get a picture. We give up the hunt, so
my only option is to link you to a Youtube video of a coatimundi (I love that
name!) that was taken in Chiricahua National Monument. This is the very unusual critter we saw – minus the snow.
We had a great time
exploring today, but we both agree the coatimundi sighting was the best part of
the day. Neither of us had ever seen one
of these animals in the wild, so it created some real excitement for a little
while. Life is good – another fun
day. Until next time – be safe.
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